The silk scarf, historically a masculine accessory?

rosedorange
Jun 12
3 min read

In our modern era, and more generally throughout the 20th and 21st centuries, the silk scarf is recognized as a predominantly feminine accessory. Its lightness, finesse, and elegance are qualities most often attributed to women. However, since fashion is a constantly rotating cycle, we are seeing a dazzling return of the silk scarf to the wardrobes of these gentlemen.

The silk scarf, a must-have accessory for women in the 1950s and 1960s, is often considered a symbol of femininity. However, when we delve into the history of the fabric and its various uses and meanings, we can see that this fichu (former name) has always been present, in both men's and women's clothing. Indeed, from Croatia to France, but also from England to the rest of the world, the silk scarf has been a coveted accessory for men for hundreds of years.

While many connoisseurs already know the story of illiterate French soldiers from the late 19th century who used it as an instruction handkerchief, depicting first aid in the event of an injury, for example, few know that this practice actually dates back to the 17th century and comes straight from Croatia. Indeed, during the fierce Thirty Years' War from 1618 to 1648, Croatian soldiers deployed in the French capital each wore an elegant scarf as a distinctive sign. Thus, they could recognize each other among the different nations on the battlefield. In addition to protecting their necks, legend has it that enemy swords glided over the fabric without causing the slightest scratch.

This type of necktie (later this would become a French word 'la cravate' - tie, neckcloth, because comes directly from the word "Croatian") did not leave the French indifferent. So much so that King Louis XIV himself, always on the lookout for the latest fashion trends, wasted no time in modifying it "à la française" and wearing it. From the 1650s onward, the accessory even became an essential part of the attire of aristocratic men.

The French army also created, in 1667, a battalion called the Royal Cravates, composed of Croats, each wearing a Cravate. This battalion still exists today and celebrated its 350th anniversary in 2017.

In England, the scarf first appeared when Charles II, then exiled in France, was repatriated in 1660 to restore the English monarchy. Silk fabric remained popular until George Bau Brummel, a pioneer of British dandyism, elevated the various knots to an art form during the English Regency.

Having become almost an institution, tying a scarf had a truly rigorous methodology. As demonstrated in "Neckclothitania," published in 1818, there were a multitude of different ways to tie a scarf, which in England was more commonly made of linen or cambric than silk or lace. Incidentally, these knots were so tight that dandies were generally unable to lower or turn their heads.

Then came Napoleon and his soldiers, as mentioned above. Their silk handkerchiefs allowed even those who could not read to understand their surroundings during the war and also to learn life skills in times of conflict.

It was by drawing inspiration from the First Empire that the fashion house Hermès launched its now-famous collection of silk scarves. On them, we can observe a plethora of symbols referring to Napoleon Bonaparte, known as Napoleon I, and his successors.

Today, all this heritage has led men to perpetuate this tradition of the scarf. Even if its use has changed considerably, from the battlefield to the French court, including the English Regency, this accessory continues to accompany them in their daily lives. Some styles have remained traditional, such as the cravat, while others have evolved into bandanas, headbands, or even pocket squares.

Here's a little lookbook to make things easier for you and show you that the scarf is still in fashion, even for men.